Title :

The Effects of Tidal Translation on Wave and Current Dynamics on a Barred Macrotidal Beach, Northern France

Author(s) :

Héquette, Arnaud [Auteur correspondant]
Laboratoire d’Océanologie et de Géosciences (LOG) - UMR 8187 [LOG]
Université du Littoral Côte d'Opale [ULCO]
Cartier, Adrien [Auteur]
Laboratoire d’Océanologie et de Géosciences (LOG) - UMR 8187 [LOG]
Schmitt, François [Auteur]
Laboratoire d’Océanologie et de Géosciences (LOG) - UMR 8187 [LOG]

Journal title :

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Special Issue Observational and Numerical Approaches in Coastal Sediment Dynamics and Hydrodynamics

Pages :

26p. / 909

Publisher :

MDPI

Publication date :

2021

ISSN :

2077-1312

English keyword(s) :

coastal hydrodynamics
barred beaches
macrotidal beaches
breaker index
wave spectral analysis
north coast of France

English abstract : [en]

Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water ...
Show more >Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and current meters, complemented by a video imagery system, were deployed on a barred beach of northern France during a 6-day experiment in order to characterize the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced processes across the beach. Wave and current spectral analyses and analyses of cross-shore current direction and asymmetry resulted in the identification of distinct hydrodynamic processes, including the development of infragravity waves and offshore-directed flows in the breaker and surf zones. Our results revealed a high spatial variability in the hydrodynamic processes across the beach, related to the bar-trough topography, as well as significant variations in the directions and intensity of cross-shore currents at fixed locations due to the horizontal translation of the different hydrodynamic zones resulting from continuous changes in water level due to tides.Show less >

Language :

Anglais

Peer reviewed article :

Oui

Audience :

Internationale

Popular science :

Non

Collections :

• Laboratoire d'Océanologie et de Géosciences (LOG) - UMR 8187

Source :

Harvested from HAL