Surface science of cosmetic substrates, ...
Type de document :
Article dans une revue scientifique: Article de synthèse/Review paper
URL permanente :
Titre :
Surface science of cosmetic substrates, cleansing actives and formulations
Auteur(s) :
Luengo, Gustavo S. [Auteur]
L’Oréal Recherche & Innovation
Fameau, Anne-Laure [Auteur]
Unité Matériaux et Transformations (UMET) - UMR 8207
Léonforte, Fabien [Auteur]
L'Oréal Recherche France [L'Oréal Recherche]
Greaves, Andrew J. [Auteur]
L’Oréal Recherche & Innovation
Fameau, Anne-Laure [Auteur]
Unité Matériaux et Transformations (UMET) - UMR 8207
Léonforte, Fabien [Auteur]
L'Oréal Recherche France [L'Oréal Recherche]
Greaves, Andrew J. [Auteur]
Titre de la revue :
Advances in Colloid and Interface Science
Numéro :
290
Pagination :
102383
Éditeur :
Elsevier BV
Date de publication :
2021-04
ISSN :
0001-8686
Discipline(s) HAL :
Chimie
Résumé en anglais : [en]
The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the ...
Lire la suite >The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the sustainability of cosmetic products. In order to go beyond traditional formulations, it is of great importance to clearly establish the science behind cleansing technologies and appreciate the specificity of cleansing biological surfaces such as hair and skin. In this review, we present recent advances in our knowledge of the physicochemical properties of the hair surface from both an experimental and a theoretical point of view. We discuss the opportunities and challenges that newer, sustainable formulations bring compared to petroleum-based ingredients. The inevitable evolution towards more bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients and sustainable formulations requires a complete rethink of many well-known physicochemical principles. The pivotal role of digital sciences and modelling in the understanding and conception of new ingredients and formulations is discussed. We describe recent numerical approaches that take into account the specificities of the hair surface in terms of structuration, different methods that study the adsorption of formulation ingredients and finally the success of new data-driven approaches. We conclude with practical examples on current formulation efforts incorporating bio-surfactants, controlling foaming and searching for new rheological properties.Lire moins >
Lire la suite >The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the sustainability of cosmetic products. In order to go beyond traditional formulations, it is of great importance to clearly establish the science behind cleansing technologies and appreciate the specificity of cleansing biological surfaces such as hair and skin. In this review, we present recent advances in our knowledge of the physicochemical properties of the hair surface from both an experimental and a theoretical point of view. We discuss the opportunities and challenges that newer, sustainable formulations bring compared to petroleum-based ingredients. The inevitable evolution towards more bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients and sustainable formulations requires a complete rethink of many well-known physicochemical principles. The pivotal role of digital sciences and modelling in the understanding and conception of new ingredients and formulations is discussed. We describe recent numerical approaches that take into account the specificities of the hair surface in terms of structuration, different methods that study the adsorption of formulation ingredients and finally the success of new data-driven approaches. We conclude with practical examples on current formulation efforts incorporating bio-surfactants, controlling foaming and searching for new rheological properties.Lire moins >
Langue :
Anglais
Comité de lecture :
Oui
Audience :
Internationale
Vulgarisation :
Non
Établissement(s) :
Université de Lille
CNRS
INRAE
ENSCL
CNRS
INRAE
ENSCL
Collections :
Équipe(s) de recherche :
Processus aux Interfaces et Hygiène des Matériaux (PIHM)
Date de dépôt :
2024-02-14T08:32:09Z